The Golden Eye

Keith Berge

The Golden Eye has had the privilege of representing artist Keith Berge for many years. His attention to detail and design are highly regarded in the world of goldsmithing.

"The primary influences in my work arise from a lifelong fascination with history and a desire to better understand the technical and artistic motivations and challenges of the past. As such, the majority of my work is an effort to pay tribute to the amazingly talented ancient craftsmen drawing heavily on Minoan, Sumerian, Etruscan, Greek, and Roman influences. Humans have adorned themselves with jewelry for at least 30,000 years but the introduction of metals into jewelry is relatively recent, only becoming widespread in the past 7000 years. Sadly, many of the techniques used by the ancients to create their masterpieces have been lost due to rapid advances in technology and the ability to inexpensively mass produce items. It is my goal to keep the old ways alive, recreating by hand, often painstakingly, pieces that are similar or identical to the pieces made thousands of years ago. Although the tools I use are better than those of the Bronze Age Etruscan craftsman, the challenges are comparable. My medium of choice is high karat gold because it imparts a soft, rich luster to my pieces, providing a look suggestive of an ancient and regal past.

In addition to my goldsmithing, I have a 'day job' as an anesthesiologist at the Mayo Clinic. While I love this career with the academic and social outlets it provides, the greatest joy of my day comes when I can sit at my workbench to recreate the wonders of the ancient past."

Gold Hoops and Gold Beaded Hoops

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Our 18kt gold hoops can be worn alone or as a foundation for drops. We also offer hanger studs that are fitted with gold wires that accommodate a variety of drops.

Green Tourmaline Terra Drops

Imagine being enveloped in the aura of arboreal green tourmalines 5.26 ctw. trimmed with beaming white diamonds .06 ctw. set in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: .6875"

Speckled Beryl Bean Drops

Pools of sheer beryl display paprika and walnut speckles...Mother Nature's having fun, in 18kt gold!

Approximate length: 1.25"

Opal and Diamond Doublet Drops

Flickering blues and greens animate our Boulder opal doublets, enrobed in 18kt and 22kt gold and crowned with glimmering semi-circles of white diamonds .20 ctw. and gold beads.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Ruby Verbena Drops

They're just so good...chic little verbena flowers are studded with vibrant rubies .16 ctw. in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: .5"

Pear Drops

This flattering teardrop shape makes a simple, stylish statement in luscious 18kt gold.

Approximate length: .875"

Kyanite and Emerald Lozenge Drops

Oval kyanite cabs 8.46 ctw. paired with round emerald cabs 1.99 ctw. were made for each other in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Diamond Triad Drops

Try our curvy little triangles of golden perfection in 18kt gold with white diamonds .10 ctw.!


Approximate length: .75"

Sapphire Circe Drops

Circe shines deep and clean with rich blue sapphires 1.20 ctw. and glittering diamonds .24 ctw. in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: .75"

Tsavorite and Diamond Drops

Irrepressible tsavorite garnets 2.29 ctw. blaze brilliantly against white diamonds .10 ctw. in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1"

Moonstone Larissa Drops

Blue-flash moonstones 2.44 ctw. are sprinkled with white diamonds .18 ctw. in 18kt gold...Larissa never looked sweeter!

Approximate length: 1"

New Zealand Pearl Waka Drops

Magnificent peacock blue mabe pearls from New Zealand make a big splash in an 18kt gold setting resplendent with gold beads, demantoid garnets .48 ctw., and glistening white diamonds .08 ctw.

Approximate length: 1"

Hungarian Coins

Authentic sterling silver Hungarian coins circa 1200 are bezeled in 18kt gold and embellished with gold beads; the coins bear the image of Madonna and Child on one side and the Hungarian crest on the other. Wear them as a perfect stand alone or layer them with our other drops, such as the Marquis Diamond Drops (pictured).

Approximate length: 1"

Purple Sapphire Sundrops

Simple, powerful, and evocative, our 18kt gold Sun Drops are major players in the goddess genre. This pair is made with passionate purple sapphires .40 ctw.

Approximate diameter: .5"

Mixed Metal Frame Drum Drops-large

Oxidized silver and 22kt gold team up to make a versatile pair of tribal drops, suitable for layering or wearing alone.

Approximate diameter: 1.5"

Mixed Metal Frame Drum Drops-small

Oxidized silver and 22kt gold team up to make a versatile pair of tribal drops, suitable for layering or wearing alone.

Approximate diameter: 1"

Splash Hanger Studs

Our 18kt gold Splash Hanger Studs are fitted with hooks that accommodate most of our drops.

Approximate diameter: .5"

Shown with our Green Tourmaline Starbright Drops (sold separately).

Approximate length: 1"

Spiny Nautilus Hanger Studs

Our 18kt gold Spiny Nautilus Hanger Studs are fitted with hooks that accommodate most of our drops.

Approximate length: 1"

Shown with our Aquamarine Gondola Drops (sold separately).

Approximate length: .625"

Diamond Triad Hanger Studs

Our 18kt gold and Diamond .10 ctw. Triad Hanger Studs are fitted with hooks that accommodate most of our drops.

Approximate length: .5"

Shown with our White Diamond Ojo Drops (sold separately).

Approximate length: .75"

Case 12 Extra Drops

Pearls

To insure that your pearls retain their beautiful nacre, please avoid contact with household chemicals, cosmetics, hairspray, and perfume. Gently wipe them with a soft dry cloth when you remove them.

Do not put pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner; instead, you may clean them with a soft cloth dampened with a light dish soap and water solution. Do not sleep or shower with your pearls on-this goes for any other strung necklace. We recommend restringing once a year. See our video tutorial

Adjusting"W" Clasps

The “W” clasp on your chain or necklace is a classic design, used for thousands of years as a functional and decorative element. It can also be used as a "hanger" for a pendant. The W is made of 24kt gold and is very flexible.

To open the clasp, push one “wing” of the W forward. Do not pull out laterally. To insure a secure closure, push the wing back to center, and align with the center loop.

After many uses you may find your clasp becoming stiff. This can easily be remedied by having it annealed, a process where the gold is heated and cooled to make the piece soft and flexible again. Any reputable jeweler can do this for you. If you would like us to do it, please allow 1-3 days for completion. See our video tutorial

Diamonds

April's birthstone, the diamond, historically symbolizes lasting love and friendship. Early Egyptians believed that the vana amoris, the vein of love, ran from the heart directly to the third finger on the left hand. We wear our engagement and wedding rings on our third finger to this day.
Recently, diamonds have been under close scrutiny by consumers, jewelers, and governments due to the exposure of conflict diamonds. The Kimberley Process is a UN mandated certification system that prevents rough diamonds mined from an area of conflict from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain. Today, 75 countries are members of the Kimberley Process, ensuring that more than 99% of diamonds available today are from conflict free sources.
At The Golden Eye, we really care about the origin of the diamonds we work with. We use a lot of "unconventional" diamonds, like rose cuts, natural cubes, macles, and diamond beads. These varieties are just now becoming popular within the mainstream jewelry industry and are naturally conflict free.
The small diamonds we use for pave and accents typically come from Australia, as do the champagne and cognac diamonds that we love so much. For more information on these diamonds, check out www.argylediamond.com.au


We have had a lot of fun the last few years with black diamonds. Black diamonds are found in Central Africa and Brazil. There is a well respected theory that these diamonds, called carbonado diamonds, arrived on earth in an asteroid that crashed here billions of years ago, before Africa and South America separated. Even though the diamond fields are now thousands of miles apart, they are part of the same, original deposit.

Corundum

When is a sapphire not a sapphire? When it's red, because then it's a ruby!

Both gemstones are a variety of corundum, a crystalline form of aluminum oxide, a mineral second in hardness only to diamond.

Known in Sanskrit as Ratnaraj, the king of gems, rubies have been a treasured gemstone for centuries. The first reference of the stone dates back to 200 B.C., from the literature of the northern Silk Road where they were transported from China to Persia.

Rubies have been used throughout history to adorn the armor, scabbards, harnesses, and crowns of nobles, kings, and queens. Until the 20th century, the ruby was thought to be more valuable than the diamond. It is the birthstone for July and the symbol for love, vivacity, power, and passion.

Rubies are found in Tanzania, Kenya, Pakistan, Montana, North and South Carolina, and under the ice shelf in Greenland.

Burma has always been known as the source of the deep pigeon blood ruby, the most prized color in the ruby world. However, due to the Burmese government's egregious human rights record, Congress passed the Block Burmese JADE Act in October of 2008. Although the U.S. did have a ban on the trade of Burmese gems, this measure closed an important loophole that had allowed the import of Burmese gems via third countries, such as India.

The sapphire, most commonly known as a deep blue gemstone, actually has a fascinating range of color. Almost every color of the rainbow exists naturally in sapphires. A rare color-change sapphire exhibits blue in natural light and a violet-purple in artificial light.

Some stones contain inclusions of small rutile needles that exhibit a property called asterism. This effect produces the "...star sapphire, displayed only in a cabochon cut, and can have six to twelve rays emanating from its center."

The finest specimens of sapphire were mined in Kashmir, Northern India in the late 1800's to about 1920. Today they are imported from Eastern Australia, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, and are also found in Montana and North Carolina.

September is the month of the sapphire. In legend and folklore the stone is said to work as an anti-depressant and act as an aid in telepathy, clairvoyance, and astral projection. So whether you are feeling a bit down, want to know what's going on, or feel the need to get the heck off the planet, a piece of sapphire jewelry might be just what you need!

Turquoise

We sometimes hear someone remark that turquoise jewelry is a "fad", or that they don't wear "Indian jewelry."
Well, if turquoise is a fad, it's got to be the longest running trend ever, as history records its popularity over 7,000 years ago! Archaeologists have recorded that the oldest known piece of jewelry is a gold and turquoise bracelet found on the arm of a mummified Egyptian Queen, around 5000 B.C.

The area once known as Persia, today's Iran, has been producing gem quality turquoise for centuries, as has China.
Native Americans have worked the stone since before the time of Christ. When the Navajo, Hopi, and Pueblo people learned silversmithing from the Spaniards in the 1800's, the stone was incorporated into their pieces. This jewelry was the precursor to the work we identify today as Indian jewelry.

Cerrillos, New Mexico is thought to be the location of the oldest turquoise mines in the country. Prior to the 1920's, the state was the country's largest producer; it is more or less exhausted today.

Arizona currently produces the most turquoise of value domestically. There are many other mines throughout the Southwest, many of which have been exhausted.

Turquoise is made up of phosphorus, copper, and aluminum. The copper is the mineral responsible for the identifying robin's egg blue color that is so valued in the stone.
The mother rock, or matrix, can often be seen running throughout the stone in a network pattern, adding interest and enhancing the beauty of the turquoise.

Most turquoise on the market today has had some kind of treatment to enhance or stabilize the stone. These procedures reduce the value of the stone in varying degrees.
Only about six percent of stones today are what we call "natural turquoise". These have not been altered in any way from their natural state. Stabilizing the turquoise is accomplished by impregnating the stone with an epoxy-type substance to make it more durable.

It is important when purchasing turquoise jewelry that the salesperson is able to indicate if the piece has been treated, or is natural.

Being a phosphate mineral, turquoise is inherently fragile and sensitive to solvents; perfume and other cosmetics will attack the finish and may alter the color of turquoise gems, as will skin oils and most commercial jewelry cleaning fluids. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight may discolor or dehydrate turquoise. Care should be taken when wearing such jewels. Cosmetics, sunscreen, and hair spray should be applied before putting on turquoise jewelry.

After use, turquoise should be gently cleaned with a soft cloth to avoid a build up of residue, and should be stored in its own container to avoid being scratched by harder gems. Turquoise can also be adversely affected if stored in an airtight container-it likes to breathe.

Amazon Queen Necklace

A stunning trio of 22kt gold nugget necklaces in complementary lengths is the essence of primitive elegance. The 15" necklace is knotted with red thread, the 17" in dark blue (sold), and the 19" in black (sold).

Tourmaline and Tsavorite Belize Drops

Lush tropical hues in the form of blue-green tourmalines 2.56 ctw. and tsavorite garnets .89 ctw. are united with white diamonds .06 ctw. and finished in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1"

Capped Citrine Drops

Gold on gold never gets old...honey-colored citrine briolettes 8.97 ctw. are suspended from wedged 18kt gold caps.

Approximate length: .75"

Tsavorite Garnet Daisy Drops

Happy green tsavorite garnets are encircled with rose cut diamonds and set in oxidized silver, finished in 22kt gold...wear them alone or layer them for a sweet and sexy look.

Approximate length: .5"

Diamond Starflower Drops

Diamond .10 ctw. Starflowers are paired with scalloped cups clutching peened dewdrops, all in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: .75"

Blackstar Diamond Pendant

A rose cut black diamond 12.4 ctw. possesses perfect aplomb in an 18kt gold frame studded with gold beads and brilliant white diamonds .40 ctw....the flip side of the pendant features a ruby cabochon .3 cts. at the center of an eight-pointed star.

Approximate length: 1"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Brown Diamond Bee Amulet

Our iconic Bee Amulet is ornamented with the soft sparkle of a honey-colored diamond and two gold beads.

Approximate length: 1"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Brandy Garnet Drops

A pair of cushion cut citrine cabochons glows warmly beneath glittering white diamonds .12 ctw. and mandarin garnet cabs, hinged below a pair of dazzling golden-yellow sphenes...all in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Victorian Coral Intaglio Drops

Rare antique coral intaglios from the Victorian era are set in 18kt and 22kt gold and embellished with diamonds .12 ctw. and pink-tipped coral tulips.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Green Tourmaline Mojito Drops

Glittering shades of green come together in dedicated service to eye-popping glamor...rose cut tourmalines 8.70 ctw. in lime and mint are set with grassy green demantoid garnets .25 ctw. in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Diamond Turquoise Drops

Transcendent blue Persian turquoise is bezel set with white diamonds in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Diamond Snow Pea Hanger Studs

Our 18kt gold Diamond .36 ctw. Snow Pea Hanger Studs are fitted with hooks that accommodate most of our drops.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Shown with our Mauve Pearl Anjou Drops (sold separately).

Water Maiden Earrings

Evans turquoise in soft blue with a sepia matrix is paired with faceted moonstones and Australian gaspeite, and bezeled in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 2.25"

Rose Cut Sapphire Necklace

A singular treasure... 107 carats of rose cut sapphires are decadently wrapped in 22kt gold...their colors range from soft pink to aqua blue, to honey gold. The handcrafted toggle clasp is so artful it can be worn in front.

Vintage Moonstone Pendant

A one-of-a-kind piece from the hands of Norah Pierson bestows iconic glamor...an effulgent rose cut moonstone from India is rimmed in sterling silver and set in gleaming 14kt gold...a frame of pave cognac diamonds attentively glistens...a generous gold bail on a sleek black chain harbors gold beads below and a silver-wrapped star sapphire above...the bottom of the piece is finished with a rose cut pear-shaped diamond and two round star sapphires, flanked by gold beads.

Approximate length: 1.25"

All proceeds will benefit The Wildlife Center, The Raptor Center, Heart & Soul Animal Sanctuary, Felines and Friends New Mexico, and Kindred Spirits Animal Sanctuary.

Ethiopian Opal Andromeda Pendant

An astounding Ethiopian opal 3.99 cts. displays fiery orange, soft peach, lime green, cornflower blue, scarlet, lemon yellow, and a few shades in between...the frame for this stunner is composed of white diamonds .40 ctw. and orange sapphires .46 ctw. in 18kt gold. No mere mortal shall usurp your rule, Goddess, when this bauble is around your neck!

Approximate length: 1.25

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Apatite Rose Cut Necklace

Carribean blue rose cut apatite stones are set with 22kt gold and white diamonds to create a gorgeous necklace....matching drops are

Apatite rose cut necklace SOLD
Rosecut Peridot and Tourmaline Necklace SOLD

Palladium Tire Bands

Specialty wedding bands were custom made for clients who already had a specific design in mind. Made from palladium, one band is set with a .71ct. diamond, the other with bright white and black diamonds.

Rose Cut Diamond Stars

A mystical, tribal feeling emanates from 22kt gold and oxidized sterling silver drops...free form rose cut diamonds are ringed with bead-set rose cuts, glistening like the desert sky at night.

Approximate length: 1"

Ottoman Stack

The Sultanate of Women (1520-1650) was a time of empowerment for high-ranking women of the Ottoman Empire...the ornate, luxurious, and colorful attire of the time would've been a perfect fit for this vibrant mixed metal stack.

From top:

RR1230 Knife Edge 18kt Gold Band
ION79 Black Diamond and Platinum Eternity Band
RC474 Andradite Garnet and Diamond 22kt Gold Ring
GEARA52 ARA Oxidized Silver and 24kt Gold Ruby Band
RC460 Bi-Color Sapphire 18kt Gold Coil Band

Lapis Triangle Be Mine Ring

Polished lapis lazuli 1.2 cts. attracts the eye in smooth 18kt gold.

Tahitian Pearl Wide Ripple Ring

It's the soap bubble shimmer we love on the glossy black nacre we crave...a full-figured Tahitian pearl floats in a sea of 18kt gold waves crested with white diamonds .12 ctw.

Sale Banner

Our Thanksgiving Drops Sale begins on Friday, November 24 at 11:00 am through Monday, November 27 at 5:00 pm . All in-stock, non-consignment drops will be 20% off. Sale prices will appear in the cart NO SOONER THAN 11:00 am. Hoops are not included. Please shop carefully. All sales are final.
Additionally, we will be in the store on Sunday November 27 from 11:00-3:00 pm to serve you.
Though we strive to keep our website updated, some of your selections may be out of stock. Call us 505-984-0040 or email us info@goldeneyesantafe.com and we will find you something you like just as much...or better.

Jingle Dangles

The 18kt gold Jingle Dangles earn their keep as a captivating backdrop...their gently hammered satin finish adds dimension (shown here layered with our Diamond Angelfish Drops)...or wear them on their own for an elegant tribal look.

Approximate length: .625 "