The Golden Eye

Norah Pierson 1940 - 2007

In the late sixties, Norah Pierson, just back from studying art and jewelry making in Italy, began an apprenticeship with master jeweler Joseph Nolen in Laguna Beach, California. In 1971 she opened her own custom jewelry store, The Golden Eye. She was very successful and built a strong following but decided that Laguna Beach was getting too big. She moved to Santa Fe, reopening her store in June 1984. When she arrived in Santa Fe, she hired Amy Bertelli to be her store manager. For twenty-three years, Norah and Amy made beautiful jewelry together and trained a growing support staff. Norah's dream store had become a reality. Sadly, in June of 2007 Norah passed away unexpectedly, leaving her shop and all of her designs in the hands of her manager Amy Bertelli. The Golden Eye's loyal crew of bench jewelers and sales associates are upholding the legacy of Norah Pierson's distinctive designs and finishes. We continue to offer exquisite jewelry, from the golden oldies to newly inspired designs, all hand made by our highly skilled team in Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Silvio Mazzarese

Silvio Mazzarese was born in Tunisia to a family of Italian jewelers. His father and uncle had a jewelry store in Tunis, and then in Rome.
The family moved to Nice, France where Silvio went to jewelry school. In 1982 Silvio moved to the United States.
He honed his skills in Kansas City and San Francisco before falling in love with the beauty, open spaces, and people of New Mexico.
Silvio became a member of The Golden Eye family where he was influenced by Norah Pierson's lavish old world aesthetic for over ten years. He continued to work with The Golden Eye until 2008.
He and his family now live in Vermont. He continues to provide The Golden Eye with his iconic designs.

Molly Burger

Mountain Rain Goldworks

Molly Burger is a jewelry wunderkind. Her parents, Falk Burger and the late Kim Bass, are considered to be “jeweler’s jewelers” due to their innovative styles and techniques. Those indelible influences, along with The Golden Eye’s founder Norah Pierson, propelled her into jewelry making at age 9, followed by her first gallery and first art show at age 12. During that time, she began her initial employment as a jeweler with local luminaries such as Denise Betesh, Valerie Fairchild, Luna Felix, and The Golden Eye. She also graduated from UNM where she flourished under the tutelage of professors Kris Mills and Constance de Jong.

Molly is fascinated by South American metallurgical techniques, some of which are evident in her work. She considers herself to be a lifelong student of metals, meeting every work day as “a new challenge, a maddeningly exciting puzzle I get to assemble.” Having been a fixture at the Tucson Gem Show as a child (subsequently employed there for 12 years as an adult), she has no patience for unspectacular stones.

Her artistic process is enriched by nature, community, and music. Molly balances her alone-time at the bench with performing as a professional singer in Sevda Choir, a Balkan musical ensemble.

“I’m from Santa Fe. The mountains are my home. Turns out I couldn’t hack it in the big city. I need to watch the stars fade into view. One by one. Building a picture that changes with the seasons. I need to feel my fingernails so packed with dirt, they feel like they’re gonna pop off every time I garden, or collect mushrooms in the mountains, or decide to just get naked and jump in the river before clawing my way back up the bank. I love digging for fossils and using them in my work. The desert, this lusciously harsh place, desiccating and nourishing, feeds my understanding of beauty, and by extension, my work.”

Molly’s wish is for her creations to confer, “Power. A physical catalyst for internal strength and confidence to flow uninhibited and unencumbered.”

Keith Berge

The Golden Eye has had the privilege of representing artist Keith Berge for many years. His attention to detail and design are highly regarded in the world of goldsmithing.

"The primary influences in my work arise from a lifelong fascination with history and a desire to better understand the technical and artistic motivations and challenges of the past. As such, the majority of my work is an effort to pay tribute to the amazingly talented ancient craftsmen drawing heavily on Minoan, Sumerian, Etruscan, Greek, and Roman influences. Humans have adorned themselves with jewelry for at least 30,000 years but the introduction of metals into jewelry is relatively recent, only becoming widespread in the past 7000 years. Sadly, many of the techniques used by the ancients to create their masterpieces have been lost due to rapid advances in technology and the ability to inexpensively mass produce items. It is my goal to keep the old ways alive, recreating by hand, often painstakingly, pieces that are similar or identical to the pieces made thousands of years ago. Although the tools I use are better than those of the Bronze Age Etruscan craftsman, the challenges are comparable. My medium of choice is high karat gold because it imparts a soft, rich luster to my pieces, providing a look suggestive of an ancient and regal past.

In addition to my goldsmithing, I have a 'day job' as an anesthesiologist at the Mayo Clinic. While I love this career with the academic and social outlets it provides, the greatest joy of my day comes when I can sit at my workbench to recreate the wonders of the ancient past."

Amy Bertelli

After inheriting The Golden Eye from her mentor, Norah Pierson, Amy embarked upon her role as the primary jewelry designer. Since 2007 she has honored the jewelry gallery’s founder while forging a path of her own. Her love of colored gemstones informs her designs. Amy considers herself a “midwife” for the materials. Her remarkable Power Pendant Series, including the Sugilite Baroque, Astarte, and Soul’s Compass Pendants, conveys the strength and depth of the Divine Feminine.

“I can always tell when I get the right combination of stones. They tell me when something is missing or when I have it right. Likewise, the decision to use 18kt gold or the warmer look of 22kt gold is dictated by the piece itself. My job is mostly to listen.”

Earrings

« »

We offer everything from studs to chandeliers, all designed to frame your face in the most flattering way. We also excel at using your stones or ours for custom earrings.

Golden Yellow Diamond Trio Drops

Captivating colorplay blazes away in Johanna Berge's Golden Yellow Diamond 2.01 ctw. Trio Drops in 22kt gold.

Approximate length: .5"

Golden Beryl Larissa Drops

Warm golden beryls add a taste of honey to our 18kt gold Larissa Drops with white diamonds .18 ctw.

Approximate length: 1"

Golden Leaf Drops

Smooth-toothed 22kt gold leaves stand out against 22kt gold beads and bails.

Approximate length: 1"

Palmas Medianas Earrings

If the fluttering gold teardrops, filigree palm leaves, smooth white pearls and kinetic extravagances of the 18kt gold Palmas Medianas Earrings don't make you want to put on a ruffled skirt and a pair of heels, then we're going to have to have a talk, girlfriend!

Approximate length: 2.5"

Flower of Life Earrings

The Flower of Life appears in 22kt gold earrings incurved to amplify the state of Oneness.

Approximate diameter: .75"

Golden Yellow Diamond Studs

Rose cut golden yellow diamonds .69 ctw. in rounded 22kt bezels look just the right kind of posh (18kt gold posts included).

Approximate diameter: .25"

Tsavorite Paisley Earrings

Double rows of 22kt gold granulation framing rich green tsavorite garnet cabs makes for a standout pair of earrings.

Approximate length: .5"

Palmas Grandes Earrings

Layers of lacy golden goodness are festooned with 18kt gold teardrops and illuminated with white cultured pearls, from Belle Fine Jewelry...glamorama!

Approximate length: 3"

Sapphire Blossom Earrings

Sterling silver and 18kt gold blossoms bear glittering prong set sapphires.

Approximate diameter: .625"

Perla en Mano Earrings

Graceful 18kt gold hands clasp little white pearls, making for a delicate vintage look from Belle.

Approximate length: 1.5"

Peridot and Pearl Tortuga Earrings

Bright peridots animate 18kt gold Tortugas graced with pearls, gold beads, and fine filigree...romance to spare from Belle Fine Jewelry.

Approximate length: 2"

Talentum Diamond Earrings

Organic shapes in 22kt gold provide the striking backdrop for two crystal clear diamonds .50 ctw. from Michael Jensen Designs.

Approximate length: .75"

Diamond Kite Studs

Perfect earrings for everyday wear, 18kt gold Diamond Kite Studs .10 ctw. are ready to go on and stay on.

Approximate size: .25"

Opal and Tourmaline

Water, sky, fire, and rainbows...all of these elements of nature seem to be embodied in the magnificent opal.

The opal is October's birthstone.

The Australian aborigines tell the story of the Creator coming down to earth from heaven on a rainbow to bring the message of peace to humans. Where his feet touched the ground, it became alive with opalescent color.

It is a fact that 95% of the world's opals are mined in the outback of Australia.

Opals are composed of a mineraloid gel, a mineral-like substance that does not demonstrate crystallinity as most gems do. Deposited in rock fissures, such as limonite, sandstone, or basalt, the small spheres of gel cause interference and refraction manifestations, resulting in the unique color play of the opal.

The opal is made up of at least 3% water, but can have a water content as high as 20%. It can become brittle when stored dry, and the color play may pale when exposed to heat for a long period. It is best to wear your opals regularly. They need to absorb the humidity from the air and the skin. They are rated a 5.5-6 on the Mohs scale, so caution is needed in order to avoid stress and abrasion to the stone.

Ethiopian Hydrophane opals have a different relationship with humidity and oils. They are happiest when they have less contact with skin oils and perspiration.

The tourmaline is also recognized as a birthstone for October. It may be a good alternative for the person who wants to wear their jewelry a little harder . The tourmaline is 7-7.5 on the Mohs scale, making it a very durable stone.

The word tourmaline means "stone with mixed color." They are found in nature in virtually every hue of the rainbow, often with multiple colors in the same stone. The watermelon tourmaline, with three distinct colors, is one of the most fascinating specimens.

Mined mainly in Brazil and Africa, tourmaline is one of the most utilized stones in jewelry today. Rubellite describes a deep red tourmaline, Paraiba, an intense blue green, and Canary, a golden yellow. No two tourmalines are exactly alike, making them a perfect choice for one-of-a-kind pieces.

Legend has classified the tourmaline as the stone of love and friendship, rendering them firm and lasting.

Rose Cut Gems

The term "rose cut" is heard more and more often when describing gemstones utilized in the jewelry industry. The Golden Eye has been using this cut for many years
What exactly is rose cut? It is a method of faceting gemstones so that the base of the stone is wide and flat with no facets; the top of the stone is domed and cut with triangular facets. These facets mimic the progressively tighter spiral of a rose, hence the name.

Most rose cuts are round, oval, or pear-shaped, but jewelers are experimenting with a variety of creative designs.

The rose cut was first introduced in the 16th century. A century later the cut had gained great acceptance and the facet arrangements became less random. Variations were based on multiples of six; six faceted roses, eighteen faceted roses, and the full rose, which consists of eighteen facets and then an upper tier of six facets.

The brilliant cut supplanted the rose cut in the 19th century but the rose cut returned at the turn of the 20th century, when the inspiration from Baroque styles drove jewelry designs. It once again fell from favor after 1910 when styles moved toward Art Deco.

For almost a century the rose cut was in retirement, but has reemerged with great momentum. Once used primarily for diamonds, the cut lends itself to many other gemstones. The look of the rose cut is softer and somewhat more natural looking than traditional faceted stones. Paired with 18kt or 22kt gold, a rose cut gem can become a timeless piece of jewelry.

Please visit our website to view many examples of rose cut jewelry.

Golden Sapphire Lanterna Earrings

Golden butterscotch sapphires are bezeled in 22kt gold and secured with gold flowers and beads...fine silver and 22kt gold posts bear flowers and caramel diamonds...by Debra Colonna.

Approximate length: 1.625"

Iolite Anqas Earrings

Geometric shapes combine to lend an extravagant pre-Colombian aesthetic to rose cut iolite earrings dressed in 22kt gold and fine silver, from Debra Colonna.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Spessartite Garnet Teardrop Earrings

Rose cut cinnamon spessartite garnets are bezeled in fine silver and embellished with 22kt gold flowers and suns. Fine silver studs provide elegant anchors with handwrought silver beading, enabling the 22kt gold flower motif to reassert itself with flair...haute hippy style from Debra Colonna.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Small Golden Turquoise Acorns

Smooth Kingman turquoise acorns 5.13 ctw. are capped in satiny 18kt gold and finished with shapely bails by Harmony Spark.

Approximate length: .5"

Sapphire Chambord Earrings

Stormy sapphires are rose cut into teardrops, mounted in fine silver, and tethered to fine silver studs adorned with 22kt gold flowers and rose cut diamonds...the stones are skirted with 22kt gold blooms and beads...haute hippie heaven by Debra Colonna.

Approximate length: 1.5"

Australian Opal Moth Earrings

Bejeweled moths alight with Australian opals bearing dreamy pastel colorplay...peened 22kt gold wings are edged in sterling silver...generous 18kt gold shepherd's hooks provide a long silhouette...an homage to nature by Molly Burger.

Approximate length: 2"

Golden Skeleton Key

What if you could have the key to the heart of your choice? It could come in handy...it could get you into trouble. Susan Sims presents the opportunity in 22kt gold.

Approximate length: 2.5"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Mixed Metal Eye of Horus Pendant

The Eye of Horus symbolizes royalty, protection, and health. We, at The Golden Eye, can certainly attest to its magnetism. This version is made with sterling silver and 18kt gold and backed with a spiral, featuring a rose cut garnet at its center. The spiral, a symbol that appears in every culture, is found in structures as small as the double helix of DNA and as large as a galaxy.

Approximate diameter: 1"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Pearl Lantern Pendant

From the Yangtze River in China comes a pearl of exceptional beauty, creamy-white with a golden nacre, finished with a scalloped 18kt gold cap and bail.

Approximate length: 1"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Color Burst Earrings

Custom made earrings with multicolored sapphires and diamonds are undeniably covetable.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Chrysocolla Mykonos Earrings

Designed and created for Elizabeth Taylor by Norah Pierson, her beaded chrysocolla earrings in 18kt gold were an auction highlight at Christie's in 2011.

Moonstone Waterfall Earrings

An absolutely stunning pair of 18kt gold earrings features translucent rainbow moonstones 18.9 ctw. in articulated bezel settings accented with diamonds .30 ctw.

Diamond and Chalcedonny Eden Roc Earrings

This over-the-top pair of 18kt gold earrings by Norah Pierson features blue chalcedony cabochons accented with brilliant white diamonds.

Approximate length: 2"

Golden Zircon Titania Ring

A spectacularly refractive golden zircon 8.9 cts. is surrounded by peachy sapphires 1.16 ctw. set in 18kt gold...tiny gold beads accent the contoured shank.

Golden Beryl Moorish Tapestry Ring

Gorgeous golden beryl 11.39 cts. works its magic with orange sapphires .24 ctw. and white diamonds .06 ctw. in 18kt gold.

Coptic Cross Earrings

The ancient Ethiopian cross is the inspiration for our Coptic Cross Earrings. Fashioned from 18kt gold and set with red rubies, they are substantial in size but intentionally balanced to be very comfortable.

Approximate length: 1.625"

Golden Zircon Ygerna Ring

From the Knights of the Round Table comes a one-of-a-kind ring in 22kt gold...a rare golden zircon cabochon flanked by mulberry zircons and andradite garnets, with a sprinkling of shimmering white diamonds.

Tiered Opal Manina Earrings

These stunning 18kt gold and Boulder opal earrings were custom designed and created by Norah Pierson for Elizabeth Taylor. They were sold at auction through Christie's in 2011.

Water Maiden Earrings

Evans turquoise in soft blue with a sepia matrix is paired with faceted moonstones and Australian gaspeite, and bezeled in 18kt gold.

Approximate length: 2.25"

Boulder Opal Earrings

Spectacular boulder opals are set in a one-of-a kind design in 18kt gold by Norah Pierson...unbelievable color, fire and luster in these stones!

Rose Cut Diamond Tertulia Earrings

Just how sexy and opulent can a girl be? That question is answered right here, right now...smoky grey diamonds 4.99 ctw. accented with effervescent white diamonds .66 ctw. in 18kt gold will leave your admirers bewitched, bedazzled, and bewildered!

Approximate length: 2"

Opal Seascape Earrings

Deep Caribbean blue swirls through vibrant Boulder opals set in 18kt gold and punctuated with bright white diamonds .18 ctw.

Fire Agate Star of Creation

The Star of Creation represents the six attributes of the Creator: power, wisdom, majesty, love, mercy, and justice...a timely talisman to remind us of our potential. Highly animated, iridescent fire agate from the vaults of The Golden Eye are inlaid in 22kt gold...the center stone is encircled with gypsy set diamonds...a diamond rests between each of the six points of the star...the back of the pendant bears a golden starlet that echos the ruling pattern. This one-of-a-kind piece possesses the magnetism of a historical relic.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Fire Agate Bracelet

Red sapphire links in18kt gold accent lively fire agates in this artful adornment...finished with our Golden Eyebox clasp.

Approximate length: 6.5"

Black Diamond Empress IV Drops

The 18kt gold Black Diamond Empress IV Drops are sensational adornments, thanks to voluminous rose cut diamond 19.5 ctw. teardrops spangled with dazzling white diamonds .53 ctw...the back view features golden twelve-pointed stars bearing white diamond centers.

Approximate length: 1.25"

Demantoid Garnet Soleil Pendant

Here comes the sun...an exceptional demantoid garnet cabochon 5.09 cts. displays the coveted feathery plumes of a horsetail inclusion...faceted demantoids .19 ctw. shine at cardinal points while golden Mali garnets .07 ctw. and shining white diamonds .16 ctw. complete the dazzling halo.

Approximate length: 1.5"

Chain sold separately.
See chains

Golden Sapphire Be Mine Ring

Said to confer clarity and assist in visualization, an oval golden sapphire 1.8 cts. cabochon is bezeled in 18kt gold and mounted on a smooth, rounded shank.

Golden Diamond Comet Ring

Stippled 18kt gold provides the backdrop for a shimmering rose cut golden diamond .26 cts. and a quartet of white diamonds .09 ctw.